Da Groj

Put a few hours in today...finally.

Installed the head permanently with 80 ftlb torque on the ARP. She made it to 60 and I lent a hand after that:



Next oil pump plate gasket:



The balance shaft delete plug (shafts were already removed from the engine...new oil pump required a new factory delete plug - nice rubber coating)



The pump plate itself:



Oil pump pickup 'strainer':



She loves that digital torque wrench...interesting to see her realize the NM equals ft lb, etc.

Oil filter adapter:



The remainder is all temp installed...other than the waterpump - didn't get a image of that...she was moving too fast.

We are still waiting for more hardware and another set of 8 rocker arms...to complete the cam install and cam timing setup.

Little shocked at the price of a quality road race oil pan...ouch!

While I'm impressed with all the progress so far, and loving that you're doing this project with you daughter, I'm really impressed with the Snap On digital flex head torque wrench

I'm not sure why oil pans are so expensive ? My thought is that they're not a high demand item, and when you need one, the retailer knows it, and they charge accordingly. Though I doubt you new pan cost more than that fancy torque wrench.

Brian: Thanks! I'm having more fun than she...but can't say she complains. Unfortunately, it is more...few choices it would seem for a road race style oil pan for the Mitsibachi engine. Seems like the best is from New Zealand...~$1100! Comes with the pick up. Moroso makes an aluminum job, but fit is poor, is out of stock last time I checked, and possibly more for drag racing.

The digital torque wrench is by far the most expensive tool in my tool box. I dislike buying tools, but we have gotten our use out of this $400 Snap On. It was a mandatory purchase 5 years ago for rod bearing job on BMW V10 'in the car'...torque angle bolts...not very comfortable with that job.

$1100 for a oil pan Is it self installing and give you back rubs ? Wow, I guess when you have gone as far as you have there's no turning back.

I don't mind buying tools, the way I look at it is that they're basically free because the money you save doing the work yourself more than pays for the tools. Sounds like you got a pretty good deal on your Snap On TW, they're going for close to $700 now, so I will stick with my ½" Craftsman TW I bought 20 years ago.

https://shop.snapon.com/product/TechAng ... ECH3FR300B

I also bought one of those engine cradles you have when I was fixing all the oil leaks on the Nissan (or should say, slowing down the leaks ). Its one of those tools you use once or twice in 10 years, but when you need it you're glad you have it. I also bought a Harbor Freight trans jack for $80, and though I've used it twice in 10 years and loaned it out a couple times, its money well spent. While we're on the subject I also just bought one of those high lift 3 ton low profile long reach floor jacks from HF a few weeks ago, that thing is just awesome, I can now get under the 240sx and my Civic without having to have someone lift up on the fender or drive up on ramps. Plus with the long handle its much easier to jack up my cars compared to my Auto Zone high lift jack that would twist under load.

Brian: Do agree having the right tool can make the difference...whether it avoids damage or just makes it more enjoyable. I'd rather not have to buy at all nor lose more space in the garage for the 'collection'! But you are right...certainly wouldn't have done the things if I couldn't spin the wrenches myself.

Not sure I will ever use the engine 'stay' again...but you never know. It along with the torque wrench allowed us to avoid a $2000 work bill. Confident it was done right too. Love to hear it hit the 8250 rpm redline every time I drove it!

Don't know why the torque wrench went up such in price. It is certainly a nice unit and could actually save a bit from (if you didn't already have them) a range of 'torque' wrenches as well as the angle meter.

Few items arrived yesterday...differential and transmission fluid:



And transfer case fluid:



More arrived today with bunch of arabic all over the package - some important pieces to the puzzle...more to follow.

Time for some manual labor! Previous owner decided a spray bombed intake manifold looks good...until the paint starts to flake off. First thought was to take to the machine shop for their high pressure cleaner. But Europe is closed until September so let the young one go at it with a drill mounted wire brush. Wasn't exactly easy...an hour later with sore arms/hands...

Previous:



In-work:



Finished!

Cleaned the throttle body and added a new IAC gasket - don't want any boost leaks!:



On went the intake manifold:



Looks pretty good...better than the black flaking paint previous!:



Next will be the valvetrain completion - 'bleeding the HLA's and timing the cams!

Tim_M wrote:let the young one go at it with a drill mounted wire brush. Wasn't exactly easy...

Well she did a great job... looks terrific!

My biggest question in all this, does your family own any footwear that aren't Crocs???

Les: Thankfully, most of the family agree on function over form is most important. And at ~$19 a pair and ability to clean up via SOS pad and look like new...efficient and cheap! Although I'm the one that has almost nothing else...Florida...

We made a two night Scout trip to Bergtesgarden area to attempt to climb a smaller Alpine mountain (Watzmann)...so consumed the weekend.



But did received some oil from the local economy (Castrol for engine pre-lub and flush) and Valvoline VR1 from the states for engine break-in:



Also received a batch of new hardware for either missing or replacing old that seen better days - engine mount bolts, nuts, drain and fill plugs along with a new turbo coolant hose:



Threading them on - easy!:



Then to cutting up my Sears Craftsman (we found an exact replacement)...trimming off the 1/4 drive female end...she seemed to enjoy it even though quite a bit of safety precaution. (Yes the vise is in the garage...):



Result!:

More parts arrived!



Evo 6 Thermostat hardware and lower o-ring seal:



New exhaust manifold hardware...original was crusty!:



And finally, to really clean up the appearance and apparently a good thing for the turbo - an OEM insulator:



Slowly, but surely...itching to fire this thing up!

Engine pics are cool, looks like it won't be long until that thing is making noise. Though the pics of the towns and areas over there are very cool, I've never been across the pond, hopefully I will someday. Did you climb the mountain ?

Brian: The Alps are storybook impressive. Always incredible scenery. We've also delayed this project to try our hand at downhill mountain biking...in the Alps. Breathtaking for several reasons...~5000 foot descent gets the blood pumping - 10 miles and 40 odd minutes to accomplish. Fun...like a video game!

170 MM travel Enduro rental bike...rides like a marshmellow...no pedaling required! The brakes are impressive, but the lever still gets soft.



Redline level run at 8800 feet to 4200 - portions of the trail is rock - bike/body takes a pounding!



Highest you can go on a bike...riding thru snow in July!



More parts arrived...Mitsubishi vacuum line manifolds are still available and quite reasonable in cost...knowing that air leaks are not good for drive-ability or engine survival...exact replacement parts with high quality Japanese parts - a joy!:



Throttle body install with new embossed metal gasket:



Rear main seal prep:



Rear main seal install...just enough room to slide it in:

Pulled the cams to allow us to turn the engine over during prelube...had to enlist assistant #2 for a spell to get this moving:



We also pumped up the GSC 'No Tick' hydraulic lash adjusters (lifters)...that was mess and fingers sore after using a fine rod to push the plunger until air bubbles stopped...all while submerged in engine oil (no images - too messy).

In goes the 'flushing' oil:



Assistant to man the drill:



Took a bit to figure out if all is well...we were turning the drill too slowly...once we maxed the rpm, Old Faithful resulted! (We had also removed the OEM oil pressure sensor in hopes to remove any 'debris' on the initial prelube...it was reinstalled to fully prelube the engine while we turned the crank).



It was actually a good example of what interesting forces happen inside an engine and the engineering behind it. The slow pump rpm resulted in no oil movement...but once we hit a certain point, significant oil pressure/flow was created. And the force the oil came out the engine was quite impressive!

Cams reinstalled with all new rockers (not inexpensive, but if it builds a bit of reliability and quiet operation...) and torqued:



Careful...only 20 NMs!

Set the timing on the camshafts...hopefully we did this correctly!



Intake cam mark:



Exhaust cam mark:



Crank mark:



Hydraulic tensioner setting...grenade pin slides freely in and out:



Does this look close enough?

Absolutely mahvelous!

Are the zipties OEM ?

Brian: OEM recommends using large paper clips for the job actually. Seems to work...took a couple of tries and appears to be correct...moving on!

Little body work:

Pulled the front bumper...10 bolts/clips and off. Nice storage, eh?:



Cleaning the oil cooler areas...looks original (maybe not the horns):



Pulled the oil cooler...been exposed to elements for 6 years...look for an aftermarket replacement. Quite a light install actually:



New set of heater hoses...Mitsu sells as a kit - quite reasonable. Likely the high quality OEM rubber was good for another 20 years though:



Little driveline work:

New transfer case o-rings...big and small:





And a little engine work...wrapping the assembly up...

Assistant mesmerized at the valvetrain as she turns the engine over for the first time...



Once satisfied...pulled the hydraulic tensioner's grenade pin:



On to torqueing bolts - exhaust...figured afterward that pulling the heat shield provides nearly full access!:



We then realized we may not have torqued the cam timing belt adjustable pulley...so off cam the front cam drive once again...and messing up the belt tensioning...lots to learn!

Don’t forget to lube up those transfercase seals. I didn’t on it and it caused it to leak. FYi I’m jelly of all the new oem parts, fresh .

Daniel: Excellent suggestion on the seals. We used a bit of engine oil...hopefully that is sufficient. The new parts are a joy to work with...stuff falls together...any surprisingly in most cases, quite reasonable prices. They seem to be about 10 years less expensive...ie haven't run out of stocks and see the prices skyrocket.

Some real progress!

More new vacuum manifolding:



Some metal reworking after dad demonstrated how soft aluminum will dent on the cam sensor housing if dropped (ack!)...assistant was happy to put the Dremel to it:



And install...final major component along with the AIR system tubing:



And a few bolts/covers to produce a complete powerplant:



Worked out the borrowed hoist and connecting apparatus without damaging the freshly coated valve cover (lucky!)...and installed the Cusco/Exedy two disc clutch - looks usable and light - 12 pound flywheel:



Friend also lent me a scale...119 kgs (262 pounds) for a near fully dressed 4G63 bullet (intake to turbo with alternator) - nice for ~400 CHP capability:



Big step:



And IN!:



Trans/transfer case install, fuel pump replacement, and awaiting the Russ Fellows exhaust to delivery...several other bits and pieces too...nonetheless, big stress reduction!